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Time to Shine: C&T Announces the 2024 Allē Award Finalists – Cosmetics & Toiletries
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Maybe you were unable to join us at our recent webinar, How to Find the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation, that we co-hosted with Tom Vierhile from Innova Market Insights. Or maybe you would like a little refresh? If so, we have you covered with five of the top things that you may have missed.
Using xanthan gum as our guide, we explored textural qualities and sustainability expectations when assessing the best ingredient choices for formulation needs.
Fluid gel network, ideal for spray
Silky sensory, no stickiness
Smooth, non-gelly, less tacky
Light, non-tacky feel and emulsifier-free stability
We showed how KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber, which is upcycled from citrus peels, not only has a great sustainability story but can create a range of textures, including the light and fresh feel that consumers desire now.
Innova Market Insights presented a sneak peek of the latest skin care trends based on their 2023 global consumer survey and data analysis. Are your formulations aligned with what consumers want now?
From mineral sunscreen tips to the best thickeners and replacing synthetic emulsifiers, we received a lot of great questions from webinar attendees. In fact, there were so many that we couldn’t get to that we decided to create a follow-up Q&A document for you.
We don’t want this to be a total spoiler alert! It’s not too late to access our webinar recording so you can receive all the great info yourself.
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In our webinar, How to Find the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation, we were grateful to be joined by Tom Vierhile from Innova Market Insights. He provided us with a fascinating presentation of the latest skin care trends and innovations based on Innova’s 2023 global consumer surveys and market analysis. These were some of his most interesting takeaways:
“Natural products” topped a list of global skin care trends that most appealed to consumers, even ranking more important than multifunctionality and personalization. In the Innova survey, well-known ingredients were also rated as a very or extremely important factor to consumers when buying skin care.
In addition to products promoting things such as free from animal-based ingredients and animal testing, “emulsifier free” and “PEG-free” positioning claims are growing with global skin care brands.
There has been an 11% average annual growth (2018-2022) in the number of skin care launches with light texture claims, according to the Innova database. Moisturizers, day creams and more promote this quality with on-package labeling such as “light skin feeling” and still providing “intense moisture without feeling heavy on the skin.”
1 in 2
…consumers globally agree or strongly agree that they would like to see more personal care products using upcycled ingredients.
According to Tom, one in two consumers globally “agree or strongly agree that they would like to see more personal care products using upcycled ingredients.” An effective way to reduce food waste, upcycling is an easy-to-understand sustainability concept and can help brands to achieve consumers’ desire for more natural ingredients. CP Kelco offers KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber, upcycled from citrus peels, an abundant byproduct of the juice industry.
An alternative to synthetic emulsifiers, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber is also an answer to “free from” claims, providing robust stability and enabling SENSational, light and fresh textures. Learn more about its sustainability story and great functionality.
Source: Innova Beauty, Household & Personal Care Survey 2023; Innova Database: % of global facial skin care launches by “free from” positioning subcategory 2018-2019 vs. 2021-2022.
Thanks for all the great questions you sent during our recent webinar with Tom Vierhile of Innova Market Insights called How to Choose the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation. There were so many that we did not have time to answer them live. Here, we’ve gathered them all and appreciate the chance to provide recommendations for some of your formulation challenges.
The good news is that consumers are keeping an open mind when it comes to new skincare ingredients. According to Innova’s Beauty, Household, and Personal Care 2023 survey, just over 40% of American consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective. This leaves the door open to innovative new ingredients and new ingredients with a story behind them, especially one that references hot button topics like sustainability, may have an inside track here.
Globally, consumers in Brazil and China are most enthusiastic. Over 70% of Brazilian consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective.
One trend that is a “sleeper” and could evolve into something serious is around the skin microbiome. Few, if any products, were talking about the skin microbiome just a few years ago. As recently as 2018, the claims were non-existent. But today, we’re starting to see companies talking about the skin microbiome and how this has an impact on whole body health. This is also tied in with the use of prebiotic and probiotic ingredients.
Regarding the skin microbiome alone, Innova reports that 2% of facial skin care products mentioned the skin microbiome in 2022. Ingredients that can either improve the health of the skin microbiome or at least not negatively impact it could be in a sweet spot, going forward.
This is a tough question. Consumers consider a variety of factors when they are shopping for products and sustainability is one of many attributes that may be considered. Price and performance are likely to rank as higher concerns for consumers, but the good news is that 4 in 10 American consumers say they are willing to pay more for personal care products that are sustainable.
The big question is probably how much more, and that is something I do not have an answer to. What we are seeing in the food and beverage space here at Innova is that the halo around environmental claims is expanding to the point where sustainability is becoming a more important facet of the “clean label” trend, one that has the potential to move the sales needle, moving forward.
Single step and direct extraction from peels helps to retain pectin, which boosts KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber’s effectiveness as an emulsion stabilizer. Other citrus fibers are produced once the pectin has been extracted.
All three are effective at stabilizing emulsions in personal care product development. We like to call KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum a “super xanthan gum” that stabilizes and thickens with a silky feel and no tack. UniqSens™ SFE System is a xanthan-based blend optimized to provide stability and flexibility in process as well a more desirable sensory compared to single ingredients. KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber is the newest stabilizer in our portfolio. It delivers a remarkably refreshing and light feel while being upcycled from food waste.
Xanthan gum is not a traditional emulsifier, but it can be used to help stabilize emulsions by providing high viscosity to the water phase, which slows the movement/agglomeration of droplets.
KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber and UniqSens™ SFE System are two great, nature-based ingredient offerings for developing emulsifier-free systems. But you could say that all of our ingredients can contribute to stable emulsions by providing viscosity to the water phase. Some are more efficient thickeners than others, some work in limited pH range or require heat, and each contributes a unique feel or texture. These factors all play a role in deciding which ingredient to incorporate in your formulation, and we are always happy to advise on product recommendations for specific needs.
This really depends on your specific system and the rest of your formulation. For instance, if you are trying to replace waxy emulsifiers (such as PEG-100 Stearate), you may find the need to include a waxy component in your oil phase to maintain the same feel. Also, the stabilization mechanism is completely different so every formulation needs to be assessed.
We might recommend KELTROL® Xanthan Gum since it is an efficient thickener that works in robust conditions. It has a wide working pH range and is compatible with many surfactant types/levels. It can be easily incorporated and is cold-processable with transparent grades available.
If you also are working with a sulphate-free formula, GENUVISCO® CG-129 Carrageenan could technically be a good option in this case. Here is a prototype for you to try.
Our portfolio of nature-based and bio-based ingredients provides a broad range of sensorial benefits when utilized alone or in combination with one another. From upcycled KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber to GENU® Carrageenan and beyond, each product is developed on purpose, with a good sustainability story to back it up.
We can provide you with a life cycle assessment so you can see for yourself. And, we can help you achieve your product goals – everything from silky thin serums to gels to luxe creams. We would be happy to help if you are looking for a specific sensory profile. We also have options to support vegan, ECOCERT® and COSMOS® certification claims.
We are texture experts; however, you can expect from us more understanding coming soon on the functional performance of our ingredients beyond rheology. For example, the area of skin health.
According to some of the interactions that our customers have experienced, consumers tend to believe that natural means “healthy” or “good for you” and “good for the planet”. Whether it is an active ingredient or a supporting ingredient, we’ve noticed that consumers generally believe the manufacturer has found a better alternative; one that leaves the world in a better place as well.
Generally speaking, if an ingredient is friendly to our skin’s microbiome, then it means that it is much less likely to irritate skin or disrupt the microbial balance. Some natural/more sustainable ingredients can have a positive impact on the microbiome by helping to maintain the diverse skin ecosystem.
Yes, CP Kelco produces a full range of nature-based and bio-based ingredients with grades that can be used across a variety of applications. We started approximately 90 years ago making pectin for food applications such as jams and jellies. Our products are now utilized in the food, pharmaceutical, oral and personal care, household, and oil and gas industries. We have grades available to address the needs of our customers and can help them meet organic, halal, kosher, non-GMO and other clean label-friendly goals.
We recommend adding xanthan gum early in the process (before surfactants, after chelator), but this is more to ensure full hydration, which can affect transparency. You could also make a slurry or pre-blend with other powders (if any) to prevent lumps and assure proper dispersion.
Somewhere around 0.05% should still allow for sprayable texture while providing stabilization benefits when using KELCOGEL® CG-LA Gellan Gum.
Here are some bio-based ingredient options for you:
Yes, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber can be an effective stabilizer in sun care and deliver a slight cooling effect that can be refreshing on the skin. It should be used at 1-2% and a pH between 3.0 and 6.0. It is best when used with a supporting emulsifier or stabilizer.
It will provide great emulsion stability. However, it will generate less viscosity per gram used. We don’t have a direct comparison, but we expect large differences in expected usage levels:
SPF does not affect KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber However, the pH of the overall formula will affect its performance. Different UV filters may require different pH levels to function properly.
Thanks for all the great questions you sent during our recent webinar with Tom Vierhile of Innova Market Insights called How to Choose the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation. There were so many that we did not have time to answer them live. Here, we’ve gathered them all and appreciate the chance to provide recommendations for some of your formulation challenges.
The good news is that consumers are keeping an open mind when it comes to new skincare ingredients. According to Innova’s Beauty, Household, and Personal Care 2023 survey, just over 40% of American consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective. This leaves the door open to innovative new ingredients and new ingredients with a story behind them, especially one that references hot button topics like sustainability, may have an inside track here.
Globally, consumers in Brazil and China are most enthusiastic. Over 70% of Brazilian consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective.
One trend that is a “sleeper” and could evolve into something serious is around the skin microbiome. Few, if any products, were talking about the skin microbiome just a few years ago. As recently as 2018, the claims were non-existent. But today, we’re starting to see companies talking about the skin microbiome and how this has an impact on whole body health. This is also tied in with the use of prebiotic and probiotic ingredients.
Regarding the skin microbiome alone, Innova reports that 2% of facial skin care products mentioned the skin microbiome in 2022. Ingredients that can either improve the health of the skin microbiome or at least not negatively impact it could be in a sweet spot, going forward.
This is a tough question. Consumers consider a variety of factors when they are shopping for products and sustainability is one of many attributes that may be considered. Price and performance are likely to rank as higher concerns for consumers, but the good news is that 4 in 10 American consumers say they are willing to pay more for personal care products that are sustainable.
The big question is probably how much more, and that is something I do not have an answer to. What we are seeing in the food and beverage space here at Innova is that the halo around environmental claims is expanding to the point where sustainability is becoming a more important facet of the “clean label” trend, one that has the potential to move the sales needle, moving forward.
Single step and direct extraction from peels helps to retain pectin, which boosts KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber’s effectiveness as an emulsion stabilizer. Other citrus fibers are produced once the pectin has been extracted.
All three are effective at stabilizing emulsions in personal care product development. We like to call KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum a “super xanthan gum” that stabilizes and thickens with a silky feel and no tack. UniqSens™ SFE System is a xanthan-based blend optimized to provide stability and flexibility in process as well a more desirable sensory compared to single ingredients. KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber is the newest stabilizer in our portfolio. It delivers a remarkably refreshing and light feel while being upcycled from food waste.
Xanthan gum is not a traditional emulsifier, but it can be used to help stabilize emulsions by providing high viscosity to the water phase, which slows the movement/agglomeration of droplets.
KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber and UniqSens™ SFE System are two great, nature-based ingredient offerings for developing emulsifier-free systems. But you could say that all of our ingredients can contribute to stable emulsions by providing viscosity to the water phase. Some are more efficient thickeners than others, some work in limited pH range or require heat, and each contributes a unique feel or texture. These factors all play a role in deciding which ingredient to incorporate in your formulation, and we are always happy to advise on product recommendations for specific needs.
This really depends on your specific system and the rest of your formulation. For instance, if you are trying to replace waxy emulsifiers (such as PEG-100 Stearate), you may find the need to include a waxy component in your oil phase to maintain the same feel. Also, the stabilization mechanism is completely different so every formulation needs to be assessed.
We might recommend KELTROL® Xanthan Gum since it is an efficient thickener that works in robust conditions. It has a wide working pH range and is compatible with many surfactant types/levels. It can be easily incorporated and is cold-processable with transparent grades available.
If you also are working with a sulphate-free formula, GENUVISCO® CG-129 Carrageenan could technically be a good option in this case. Here is a prototype for you to try.
Our portfolio of nature-based and bio-based ingredients provides a broad range of sensorial benefits when utilized alone or in combination with one another. From upcycled KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber to GENU® Carrageenan and beyond, each product is developed on purpose, with a good sustainability story to back it up.
We can provide you with a life cycle assessment so you can see for yourself. And, we can help you achieve your product goals – everything from silky thin serums to gels to luxe creams. We would be happy to help if you are looking for a specific sensory profile. We also have options to support vegan, ECOCERT® and COSMOS® certification claims.
We are texture experts; however, you can expect from us more understanding coming soon on the functional performance of our ingredients beyond rheology. For example, the area of skin health.
According to some of the interactions that our customers have experienced, consumers tend to believe that natural means “healthy” or “good for you” and “good for the planet”. Whether it is an active ingredient or a supporting ingredient, we’ve noticed that consumers generally believe the manufacturer has found a better alternative; one that leaves the world in a better place as well.
Generally speaking, if an ingredient is friendly to our skin’s microbiome, then it means that it is much less likely to irritate skin or disrupt the microbial balance. Some natural/more sustainable ingredients can have a positive impact on the microbiome by helping to maintain the diverse skin ecosystem.
Yes, CP Kelco produces a full range of nature-based and bio-based ingredients with grades that can be used across a variety of applications. We started approximately 90 years ago making pectin for food applications such as jams and jellies. Our products are now utilized in the food, pharmaceutical, oral and personal care, household, and oil and gas industries. We have grades available to address the needs of our customers and can help them meet organic, halal, kosher, non-GMO and other clean label-friendly goals.
We recommend adding xanthan gum early in the process (before surfactants, after chelator), but this is more to ensure full hydration, which can affect transparency. You could also make a slurry or pre-blend with other powders (if any) to prevent lumps and assure proper dispersion.
Somewhere around 0.05% should still allow for sprayable texture while providing stabilization benefits when using KELCOGEL® CG-LA Gellan Gum.
Here are some bio-based ingredient options for you:
Yes, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber can be an effective stabilizer in sun care and deliver a slight cooling effect that can be refreshing on the skin. It should be used at 1-2% and a pH between 3.0 and 6.0. It is best when used with a supporting emulsifier or stabilizer.
It will provide great emulsion stability. However, it will generate less viscosity per gram used. We don’t have a direct comparison, but we expect large differences in expected usage levels:
SPF does not affect KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber However, the pH of the overall formula will affect its performance. Different UV filters may require different pH levels to function properly.
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Insights
Consumers today expect their skin care products to have a cleaner label, with more “natural” and sustainably sourced ingredients. According to Innova Market Insights, 46% of global consumers always take sustainability into account when buying personal care products. Vegan claims also grew to 23% of launches in 2022. However, consumers also expect their skin care products to offer high performance and an innovative, sensory experience. In this webinar, we discuss how to reformulate serums, lotions and creams to meet new consumer demands and address the following topics:
During the webinar, we received many questions from attendees on topics such as replacing emulsifiers and synthetics, innovation, texture challenges and more. Click the button below to see top questions and answers from our team of experts at CP Kelco innovation centers around the world.
Three straight years of crop devastation in the world’s key tomato-producing regions have tomato paste prices nearing historic levels. Don’t let a crisis derail your company’s development plans for condiments and other tomato-based products. Let’s talk about solutions instead!
NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber can help extend tomato solids up to 25% in tomato sauces and condiments, according to our internal lab studies, without experiencing loss of mouthfeel, texture, color or appearance. Similar to a tomato’s own composition, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber contains a blend of insoluble and soluble fiber with a high level of pectin. This makes it a much more desirable, clean label-friendly choice for reformulation versus alternatives that can alter the texture, taste and mouthfeel of your product.
Unlike starch, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber provides clean flavor release so your product’s hearty tomato flavor comes through well. It also stands up well to the harsh processing and eating occasions of tomato products, so it can handle the pH and the freeze-thaw-heat conditions, remaining uniform and resisting syneresis.
NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber can help extend tomato solids up to 25% in tomato sauces and condiments, according to our internal lab studies, without experiencing loss of mouthfeel, texture, color or appearance. Similar to a tomato’s own composition, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber contains a blend of insoluble and soluble fiber with a high level of pectin. This makes it a much more desirable, clean label-friendly choice for reformulation versus alternatives that can alter the texture, taste and mouthfeel of your product.
Unlike starch, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber provides clean flavor release so your product’s hearty tomato flavor comes through well. It also stands up well to the harsh processing and eating occasions of tomato products, so it can handle the pH and the freeze-thaw-heat conditions, remaining uniform and resisting syneresis.
It makes good financial sense to get the most out of ingredients in short supply. Rather than settling for a lower quality product, consider an ingredient that can meet consumers’ expectations. Deliver similar taste, texture and mouthfeel with an ingredient that has the added benefit of supporting dietary fiber intake – a plus for consumers. NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber does not require special handling and cold storage like tomatoes do, and the use level is very low. As a bonus, it also supports sugar reduction by providing body and mouthfeel.
NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber is upcycled from sustainably sourced citrus peels, a byproduct of the juice industry near our plant in Brazil. This next-generation ingredient supports dietary fiber intake and offers unique water-holding, texturizing and stabilization capabilities. With an abundant, nature-based raw material supply available, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber is well-positioned to help solve supply challenges.
An easily recognizable ingredient, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber has no E number in Europe and can be listed simply as citrus fiber on the product label to help you meet clean label-friendly goals. In addition, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber is also compatible with standard manufacturing processes, so that is one less thing to worry about when reformulating. Ask us to show you how to reduce reliance on supply-challenged ingredients in your application. Our team of technical experts is happy to work with you to meet your product development needs.
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