A Sneak Peek at New Skin Care Trends

In our webinar, How to Find the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation, we were grateful to be joined by Tom Vierhile from Innova Market Insights. He provided us with a fascinating presentation of the latest skin care trends and innovations based on Innova’s 2023 global consumer surveys and market analysis. These were some of his most interesting takeaways:

Consumers find "natural products" most appealing

“Natural products” topped a list of global skin care trends that most appealed to consumers, even ranking more important than multifunctionality and personalization. In the Innova survey, well-known ingredients were also rated as a very or extremely important factor to consumers when buying skin care.

"Vegan" and "free-from" claims are trending in new product development

In addition to products promoting things such as free from animal-based ingredients and animal testing, “emulsifier free” and “PEG-free” positioning claims are growing with global skin care brands.

New texture trend: light and fresh

There has been an 11% average annual growth (2018-2022) in the number of skin care launches with light texture claims, according to the Innova database. Moisturizers, day creams and more promote this quality with on-package labeling such as “light skin feeling” and still providing “intense moisture without feeling heavy on the skin.”

Consumers want upcycled ingredients

1 in 2

…consumers globally agree or strongly agree that they would like to see more personal care products using upcycled ingredients.

According to Tom, one in two consumers globally “agree or strongly agree that they would like to see more personal care products using upcycled ingredients.” An effective way to reduce food waste, upcycling is an easy-to-understand sustainability concept and can help brands to achieve consumers’ desire for more natural ingredients. CP Kelco offers KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber, upcycled from citrus peels, an abundant byproduct of the juice industry.

An alternative to synthetic emulsifiers, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber is also an answer to “free from” claims, providing robust stability and enabling SENSational, light and fresh textures. Learn more about its sustainability story and great functionality.

Want more on skin care trends?

Source: Innova Beauty, Household & Personal Care Survey 2023; Innova Database: % of global facial skin care launches by “free from” positioning subcategory 2018-2019 vs. 2021-2022.

How to Choose the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation

Consumers today expect their skin care products to have a cleaner label, with more “natural” and sustainably sourced ingredients. According to Innova Market Insights, 46% of global consumers always take sustainability into account when buying personal care products. Vegan claims also grew to 23% of launches in 2022. However, consumers also expect their skin care products to offer high performance and an innovative, sensory experience. In this webinar, we discuss how to reformulate serums, lotions and creams to meet new consumer demands and address the following topics: 

  • The Latest Skin Care Trends from Innova Market Insights
  • New Ingredient Options
  • How New Packaging Can Also Mean Reformulating
  • How to Achieve Emulsion Stability
  • Meet “Free From” Claims
  • And More!

Want more on sustainable skin care formulations?

During the webinar, we received many questions from attendees on topics such as replacing emulsifiers and synthetics, innovation, texture challenges and more. Click the button below to see top questions and answers from our team of experts at CP Kelco innovation centers around the world.

Answers to Your Top Functional Gummy Questions

During our recent webinar on formulating functional gummies, we asked you to send us your toughest questions. We received an incredible response, so we know that you are as passionate about this subject as we are! Most of the questions we received could be divided into themes of heat stability, alternatives to gelatin, sugar free and fortification challenges. Please see the answers below from the experts at our innovation centers:

Because of the global nature of e-commerce, you will begin to see more commonalities across the regions. However, each region will still add its unique touch to appeal to local needs. Pay attention to the emerging trend of personalization that we discussed in the webinar. 

Not everyone is ready for 3D printing but the idea of tailoring solutions to lifestyle, age, beliefs (such as vegan and halal), and health goals helps consumers to feel more catered to and included. That kind of personalization will be welcome in any region.

This will depend on the functional ingredients to be used. Use level is important as well as the pH each ingredient may bring to the product. Next, one will need to ensure a gelling agent aligns with the formulation, labeling and processing requirements. 

For example, our GENU® Pectin can do an excellent job of setting and providing stability to products with a lower pH. However, if the type of minerals or flavor of the product results in a higher pH (from 4.0–5 or above), then we can also recommend another grade of pectin or perhaps GENUGEL® Carrageenan might be a better choice.

Functional compounds may have different sensitivities to temperature and pH, and there are technologies like encapsulation that can help to protect these actives. In a functional gummy process, these compounds are typically added before acidification, or as late in the process before deposit. The recommendation is to mix them with either glycerin or corn syrup to provide some protection. 

This step can impact the product’s overall pH, so we advise using a gelling agent that tolerates this variability. Our GENU® Pectin for fortified gummies can be a good option to maintain gelling and texture characteristics.

It is possible to replace sugar and corn syrup with other solids or bulk ingredients. A key consideration for these ingredients is solubility, as you will want to provide a minimum amount of total soluble solids for gelling agents to set (thinking about pectin), and for the end product to have good firmness and stability. Therefore, polyols or soluble fiber are typically used.

Other ingredients can be used but firmness may be reduced as their solubility and composition varies, depending on the ingredient.  

Melting and stickiness may be caused by moisture migration into the product. To eliminate the possibility of this issue coming from the hydrocolloid ingredient, it is important to understand if it has been properly dispersed and hydrated, and if the pH of the product is suitable for its functionality. Another reason can be related to the carbohydrate composition, so the amounts of sugar and corn syrup (or other solids) should be reviewed.

This can also be a common problem with gelatin gummies because of their heat instability, especially when trying to ship for e-commerce or during warm summer months when the temperature can exceed 30°C. There are other ingredient options available with better heat stability than gelatin, such as our GENU® Pectin and GENUGEL® Carrageenan.

CP Kelco has several nature-based solutions — not animal based — that can meet your requirements. They can produce a variety of textures, so matching the texture of one gelling agent with another requires looking at the source, hydration and gelling properties of the different ingredients. You may even prefer a blend. We would be happy to collaborate and recommend the ingredient combination that makes the most sense, considering your texture and labeling needs.

In general, sensory evaluations of GENU® Pectin show that it has a softer, chewy bite, and it can enhance fruit flavors you may be using. Our GENUGEL® Carrageenan is another vegan option. It will not stick to teeth, and it has more of an elastic but refreshing chew. Both pectin and carrageenan can provide shelf stability and higher temperature resistance, for a non-melting and non-sticky performance.

Pectin can be a very good option for temperature stability. Once pectin sets, it forms a thermally stable gel that tolerates higher shipping temperatures than gelatin, which tends to melt at 35°–40°C. If in addition the goal is to maintain texture, a partial replacement of gelatin with pectin can be considered.

Gellan gum is often used in combination with other gelling agents, such as carrageenan or pectin to adjust the texture. KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum provides a firm texture while carrageenan provides a texture range going from firm to elastic. Gellan gum, carrageenan and pectin all have a wide pH working range, heat stability and fast setting rate with great flavor release, making them very compatible ingredients.

Finally, the total soluble solids (TSS) to deposit gummies should be between 77%–78%, with the final TSS typically between 80%–82%. This allows for product stability and texture. It can be achieved with a variety of sweeteners or bulk ingredients, depending on the characteristics of the end product.

Typically, the same equipment can be used when working with other gelling agents like pectin or carrageenan. The main considerations to include or adjust in the process are around hydration and dissolution of the ingredients, as well as higher setting and gelling temperatures. 

The concentration of vitamins, minerals or other active ingredients are typically determined by the amount per serving that is intended for gummy supplements to provide. Pectin can be used in formulas where these ingredients are included at higher concentrations (e.g., between 15%–20%), as long as the conditions of pH and solids are still maintained for pectin to set. We have a variety of pectins that can be evaluated to provide good gelling and texture to different types of functional gummies.

colorful candyPectin can be used either on its own or in combination with other gelling agents to create liquid-filled gummies, and it is a very good option when thinking about vegan or label-friendly alternatives. Our pectin portfolio includes a variety of options that can be recommended depending on formulation and texture needs. 

Some functional ingredients can either shift the pH conditions that allow pectin to set or can be a source of ions that may affect pectin gelation. Working on selecting the right type of pectin can improve setting and overall texture, in the presence of botanical or functional ingredients.

To prevent syneresis in gummies, there are a few things to consider. First, it’s important to maintain the total soluble solids at 80%–82% or correct them if needed. Typically, an increase in soluble solids helps.

Another consideration would be around the gelling agent. For example, the sweeteners or bulking agents typically used in sugar-free gummies tend to provide a weaker pectin gel and more tendency for syneresis, so an increase of 5%–10% of pectin should do a better job at holding water and maintaining firmness.

One more suggestion is to increase the stoving temperature to 35°–45°C to improve drying efficiency.

Finally, if there are any reducing sugars in the bulking agents used in the sugar-free or sugar-reduced formula, they can be adjusted by either decreasing the amount of glucose syrup or reducing the holding time at which the candy mass is exposed at high temperature and low pH.

Looking for more on functional gummies?

Formulating On-Trend Functional Gummies with Nature-Powered Ingredients

All rights reserved. Video may not be copied, reproduced, distributed, republished, downloaded, displayed, posted or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of CP Kelco.

Vegan and gelatin-free. Reduced sugar. Wellness and beauty from the inside for all ages. With our strategic market insights, you will learn about the latest trends from around the globe as well as your best ingredient options for formulating clean label-friendly, functional gummies. What ingredients offer the heat stability to capture more e-commerce sales? What ingredients will provide the consistent texture, structure and mouthfeel consumers desire? We will cover the nature-based possibilities for functional gummy formulation and answer your questions to help your brand stand out.

Looking for more on functional gummies?

During our webinar, we received many questions from attendees on topics such as heat stability, alternatives to gelatin, sugar free and fortification challenges, and more. Click the button below to see top questions and answers from our team of experts at CP Kelco innovation centers around the world.

Winning in the Emulsifier-Free Segment with an Upcycled Solution

All rights reserved. Video may not be copied, reproduced, distributed, republished, downloaded, displayed, posted or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of CP Kelco.

Citrus peels are a plentiful byproduct of the juicing industry – something that would be considered food waste.  With circularity in mind, our goal is an innovative portfolio of readily biodegradable products that come from zerowaste facilities* and we are well on our way!  Extracted from the peels, citrus fiber is already used in many food applications; the newly developed KELCOSENSTM Citrus Fiber PiEL helps stabilize emulsifier-free skin care products delivering SENS-ational textures. This upcycled ingredient helps you meet specific requirements for non-GMO, vegan, kosher & halal products.

We hope you enjoy the webinar!

*zerowaste is defined as >90% waste diversion from landfills


Good Day, Fresh Face! Facial Cream Recipe

Our new, upcycled KELCOSENSTM Citrus Fiber, combines with gellan gum for increased emulsion stabilization in this light yet luxurious facial cream with attractive pick-up, a frosted touch at application and a fresh feeling on the skin.

Formulating Plant-Based Meat Alternatives with Nature-Powered Ingredients

When it comes to plant-based meat alternatives, consumers today have two requests: deliver a better meat-like eating experience, and do it with simpler, more recognizable ingredients. In this webinar with Food Ingredients First and Innova Market Insights, we talk about the latest plant-based meat alternatives market trends, global consumers’ needs and preferences and provide an overview of nature-based ingredient solutions available to help you formulate for success.

SEPAWA® 2020 Presentation: CELLULON® Cellulose Liquid

Listen as Alain Phyfferoen, Senior Technical Support & Development Manager, CP Kelco UK Ltd. delivers his SEPAWA® Congress 2020 presentation featuring CELLULON® Cellulose Liquid.  This ingredient is a sustainable: biodegradable, nature-based structuring solution for liquid laundry detergents and other home care products.