Innovating to Reduce Plastic Usage

The global theme for Earth Day 2024 is Planet vs. Plastics. When it comes to consumer care and plastic, the better choice is to “reduce” instead of “recycle.” Most products are packaged in single-use plastic and recycling rates are extremely low: The British Beauty Council estimates that only 9% of packaging is recycled. As formulators know, personal care and home care products are largely water-based. Reduce or eliminate the water and there’s much less product to ship, lowering freight costs as well as opening up new packaging opportunities.

Earth Day bonus! Try our free recipe for a waterless hand cleanser:

Versatile, fermentation-derived KELTROL® CG-SFT Xanthan Gum is known for its unique smooth flow rheology and transparent thickening. COSMOS® Certified, vegan, non-GMO and organic-compliant ingredient grades available.

Key Attributes 
AppearanceTransparent Gel
pH4.5-5.0
Viscosity – Brookfield® RV5 viscometer @ 20 RPM
3,000-5,000 cP
Order of IngredientsIngredientINCI/Chemical NameWeight %
ASodium Coco SulfateSodium Coco Sulfate83.00
BKELTROL® CG-SFTXanthan Gum8.00
CDisodium EDTA,
Sodium Benzoate,
Potassium Sorbate,
Citric Acid Powder
Disodium EDTA,
Sodium Benzoate,
Potassium Sorbate,
Citric Acid
0.50
3.00
2.00
3.50

Process/Procedure

  1. Add Phase A to vessel.
  2. In Phase B, sift KELTROL® CG-SFT Xanthan Gum into batch and mix.
  3. Add remaining Phase C ingredients and mix thoroughly.

Instructions for Usage

  1. Add 200 mL of warm tap water to a container.
  2. Pour 20 grams of hand soap powder into water and hand mix for 1-2 minutes.
  3. Let the mixture sit for 30–60 minutes and mix again.
  4. Your new cleanser is ready to use.

Solving the microplastics problem

Between regulatory efforts and brands policing themselves, the use of non-biodegradable microplastics in home care and personal care products is well on its way out. There are also more eco-friendly alternatives available that can act as exfoliating scrubbers or fragrance encapsulates to help you differentiate your product. Because no one likes to pay for water, CP Kelco can also help you develop more concentrated and low-water formulations. Read more about how to clean up home care products like laundry pods, liquid laundry detergent, fabric softener and dishwashing detergent with CELLULON® Cellulose Liquid.

Learn more about our solutions for sustainable personal care and home care formulations.

Brookfield® is a registered trademark of AMETEK Brookfield Inc.

The information contained herein is, to our best knowledge, true and accurate, but all recommendations or suggestions are made without guarantee, since we can neither anticipate nor control the different conditions under which this information and our products are used. There are no implied or express warranties of fitness for purpose. Each manufacturer is solely responsible for ensuring that their final products comply with any and all applicable federal, state and local regulations. Further, CP Kelco disclaims all liability with regard to customers’ infringement of third-party intellectual property including, but not limited to patents. We recommend that our customers apply for licenses under any relevant patents.

Sensory and Sustainability: Our Personal Care Ingredient Solutions

Meet our portfolio of innovative, readily biodegradable ingredients derived from renewable raw materials to help you reach your sustainability goals:

Our highly functional, fermentation-derived cellulose that forms a unique 3D net-like structure for exceptional suspension even in low- and no-water systems.

A vegan-friendly, nature-based alternative to synthetic texturizers. Extracted from red seaweed, it is renowned for its thickening, gelling and stabilizing properties as well as its clarity.

Upcycled from citrus peels, a byproduct of the juice industry, pectin is an easily recognizable thickening, gelling and stabilizing ingredient with skin-friendly moisturizing and hydrating properties.

A fermentation-derived rheology modifier that thickens, suspends and stabilizes across a wide range of temperatures while providing a silky, sensory experience.

Fermentation-derived from bacteria found on water lily plants. Gellan gum forms flexible, fluid gels, sprayable textures and thick gels with excellent pick-up in formulations with a light feel.

A versatile, fermentation-derived ingredient that delivers transparent thickening with smooth flow rheology.

Our carrageenan, pectin and xanthan gum blend emulsify oil-in-water systems, stabilizes, thickens and provides excellent sensorial benefits without the use of traditional emulsifiers or surfactants. 

And our first Upcycled Certified® ingredient*, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber – What begins as food waste, citrus peels from the juice industry, are upcycled into a powerful personal care ingredient. Gentle on skin, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber delivers emulsifier-free stabilization with SENSational textures.

*Upcycled Certified® is a registered trademark of the Upcycled Foods Association.

Our highly functional, fermentation-derived cellulose that forms a unique 3D net-like structure for exceptional suspension even in low- and no-water systems.

A vegan-friendly, nature-based alternative to synthetic texturizers. Extracted from red seaweed, it is renowned for its thickening, gelling and stabilizing properties as well as its clarity.

Upcycled from citrus peels, a byproduct of the juice industry, pectin is an easily recognizable thickening, gelling and stabilizing ingredient with skin-friendly moisturizing and hydrating properties.

A fermentation-derived rheology modifier that thickens, suspends and stabilizes across a wide range of temperatures while providing a silky, sensory experience.

Fermentation-derived from bacteria found on water lily plants. Gellan gum forms flexible, fluid gels, sprayable textures and thick gels with excellent pick-up in formulations with a light feel.

A versatile, fermentation-derived ingredient that delivers transparent thickening with smooth flow rheology.

Our carrageenan, pectin and xanthan gum blend emulsify oil-in-water systems, stabilizes, thickens and provides excellent sensorial benefits without the use of traditional emulsifiers or surfactants. 

And our first Upcycled Certified® ingredient*, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber – What begins as food waste, citrus peels from the juice industry, are upcycled into a powerful personal care ingredient. Gentle on skin, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber delivers emulsifier-free stabilization with SENSational textures.

*Upcycled Certified® is a registered trademark of the Upcycled Foods Association.

Discover how to create unique textures without sulfates, silicone or parabens.

EMULSIONS

Blue gel swipe

KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum

UniqSens™ SFE
Emulsifier-Free System

KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber

KELTROL® Xanthan Gum

GELS/CREAMS

White cream swipe

GENU® Pectin

KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum

GENU® Carrageenan

Discover how to create unique textures without sulfates, silicone or parabens.

EMULSIONS

Blue gel swipe

KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum

UniqSens™ SFE
Emulsifier-Free System

KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber

KELTROL® Xanthan Gum

GELS/CREAMS

White cream swipe

GENU® Pectin

KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum

GENU® Carrageenan

Let us help you tap into consumer trends, solve formulation challenges, and explore new ideas in functionality and format.

Ask us about our range of COSMOS® certified, vegan, halal, kosher, non-GMO and organic-compliant ingredient grades to meet consumers’ growing demand.

How Pectin Can Help You Reduce Sugar in Fruit-Flavored Drinks without Losing Mouthfeel

Consumer – and government – interest in reduced-sugar beverages is on the rise. So far, approximately nine U.S. jurisdictions and more than 50 countries have implemented a consumer tax on sugar-sweetened beverages. Globally, consumer-driven nutrition scores are also affecting product placement and purchases. 

Heavily influenced by the longstanding health and wellness megatrend, “low-/no-sugar” and “real” ingredients are among the top positioning claims influencing consumer behavior.

While consumers want less sugar, they don’t want to sacrifice taste and texture. According to Innova Market Insights*, the top reasons why people consume fruit-flavored drinks are because “they taste great” and their “kids like them.” 

stack of sugar cubes on white background
 According to Food Navigator, the global cost of sugar is also on the rise and expected to climb higher this year due to poor weather conditions in major growing regions of the EU, India, Thailand and Brazil.

Consumers are sensitive to changes in beverage consistency, viscosity, flavor release and mouthfeel. Formulators must find innovative ways to preserve the texture consumers crave while reducing sugar.

How Pectin Can Help

GENU® Pectin is upcycled from citrus peels, an abundant byproduct of the juice industry. So, you could say it’s a natural for juice drinks. This easily recognizable, label-friendly ingredient can also help when you want to use less sugar in your formulations, too. Pectin adds viscosity and body to mimic a full-sugar mouthfeel while also enhancing the fruity flavors of your beverage. Process tolerant, it’s become a beverage formulator’s staple for:

  • Thickening acidic beverages.
  • Improving flavor release.
  • Providing long-lasting stability.
  • Creating a wide range of mouthfeels.

See if our GENU® Pectin is the right solution for your
reduced-sugar beverage formulation.

*Innova Market Insights, April 2023

Squeezing More Value Out of Fruit-Flavored Drinks

Thanks to the health and wellness trend, the juice category has experienced a spike in demand. After all, beverages are an easy way for busy consumers to add extra servings of fruits and vegetables to their diet, as well as immunity boosting vitamins. Parents also know it is easier to persuade a child to drink a fruity beverage than to eat a plate of brussels sprouts.

According to Innova Market Insights*, juices made with “real/natural” ingredients and less sugar are important to consumers around the globe, as are beverages that provide a source of vitamins, fiber, antioxidants and other “good for you” benefits.

Formulators' Focus

Consumers and beverage manufacturers are both on a search for value. Consumers are watching their wallets and looking for clean label-friendly products with less sugar, but they do not want to compromise on great taste. Manufacturers are looking for creative solutions to meet the challenges of higher costs, chaotic supply shortages and sugar reduction that can sometimes lead to reformulation.

How NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber Can Help

Meet the first Upcycled Certified® citrus fiber ingredient** on the market, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber. We upcycle citrus peels, an abundant byproduct of the juice industry near our plant in Brazil. From juice byproduct to a great juice drink solution, it is quickly becoming the formulators’ secret for:

  • Supporting dietary fiber intake.
  • Enhancing mouthfeel so you can reduce sugar.
  • Reducing reliance on fruit pulp – adding opacity to provide a similar appearance.
  • Supporting suspension so you can extend fruit pulp further as a cost saving measure.
  • Supporting viscosity to get the body and mouthfeel of full fruit pulp formulation.
  • Acting as an alternative to other gums and stabilizers.
  • Providing formulators with the ability to simplify labels – you can just state “citrus fiber.”
  • Delivering a very competitive product that looks and tastes great.
  • And more!

NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber helps meet market demands while also supporting your ingredient reduction and sustainability goals.

Meet the first Upcycled Certified® citrus fiber ingredient** on the market, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber. We upcycle citrus peels, an abundant byproduct of the juice industry near our plant in Brazil. From juice byproduct to a great juice drink solution, it is quickly becoming the formulators’ secret for:

  • Supporting dietary fiber intake.
  • Enhancing mouthfeel so you can reduce sugar.
  • Reducing reliance on fruit pulp – adding opacity to provide a similar appearance.
  • Supporting suspension so you can extend fruit pulp further as a cost saving measure.
  • Supporting viscosity to get the body and mouthfeel of full fruit pulp formulation.
  • Acting as an alternative to other gums and stabilizers.
  • Providing formulators with the ability to simplify labels – you can just state “citrus fiber.”
  • Delivering a very competitive product that looks and tastes great.
  • And more!

NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber helps meet market demands while also supporting your ingredient reduction and sustainability goals.

3 Recent CP Kelco Innovation Lab
Observations to Note

3 Recent
CP Kelco
Innovation Lab
Observations
to Note

1. 4% sugar reduction in orange drink

NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber may offer new opportunities for reducing sugar from 8% to 4% in a beverage with 20% orange juice. Besides enhancing viscosity, appearance and opacity, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber supports body to help compensate for the lack of mouthfeel from the reduced sugar content. It is compatible with standard manufacturing processes, including a homogenization step. Because it is flexible towards low pH (3.0 – 3.4), there are also possibilities for new fruit flavor drink options as well.

2. 40% reduction in mango puree

NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber may offer an opportunity to formulate mango drinks with up to a 40% reduction in the use of mango puree with similar stability, appearance and mouthfeel. Often, when the puree content is reduced, it can result in phase separation and pulp sedimentation as well as loss of mouthfeel and body. NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber supports building back mouthfeel and opacity and preventing phase separation.

3. 50% reduction in orange juice concentrate

In recent technical work, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber supported mouthfeel enhancement and viscosity that may allow for a 50% reduction in the use of orange pulp/sac inclusions in an orange juice concentrate drink with 6% sugar.

*Innova Category Survey 2023, Innova Health and Nutrition Survey 2023. 

**Upcycled Certified® is a registered trademark of the Upcycled Food Association.

See if NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber can help provide a cost-effective solution for your reduced-pulp and reduced-sugar beverage formulations. Reach out for more information and a sample to compare application notes.

5 Things You May Have Missed from Our Recent Skin Care Webinar

Maybe you were unable to join us at our recent webinar, How to Find the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation, that we co-hosted with Tom Vierhile from Innova Market Insights. Or maybe you would like a little refresh? If so, we have you covered with five of the top things that you may have missed. 

1. Mapping top skin care ingredients from gels to emulsions

Using xanthan gum as our guide, we explored textural qualities and sustainability expectations when assessing the best ingredient choices for formulation needs.

GELS

Fluid and elastic gel textures.

GENU® Pectin

  • Gel textures, barrier protection
  • Upcycled from citrus peels

GENUVISCO® Carrageenan

  • Elastic gel textures, film forming
  • Sourced from seaweed
KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum
  • Fluid gel network, ideal for spray

EMULSIONS

Silky, light and refreshing feel for emulsions. 

KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum
  • Silky sensory, no stickiness
KELTROL® CG SFT Xanthan Gum  
  • Smooth, non-gelly, less tacky

UniqSens™ SFE System

  • Light, non-tacky feel and emulsifier-free stability

KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber

  • Refreshing feel, light touch
  • Upcycled from citrus peels

Meeting sustainability expectations

Nature-Based
Fermentation
Responsibly Sourced
Upcycled
Readily Biodegradable

GELS

Fluid and elastic gel textures.

GENU® Pectin

Gel textures, barrier protection

Upcycled from citrus peels

GENUVISCO® Carrageenan

Elastic gel textures, film forming

Sourced from seaweed

KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum

Fluid gel network, ideal for spray

EMULSIONS

Silky, light and refreshing feel for emulsions. 

KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum

Silky sensory, no stickiness

KELTROL® CG SFT
Xanthan Gum

Smooth, non-gelly, less tacky

UniqSensSFE System

Light, non-tacky feel and emulsifier-free stability

KELCOSENS Citrus Fiber

Refreshing feel, light touch

Upcycled from citrus peels

Meeting sustainability expectations

Nature-Based
Fermentation
Responsibly Sourced
Upcycled
Readily Biodegradable

2. Finding functionality in upcycled ingredients

We showed how KELCOSENS Citrus Fiber, which is upcycled from citrus peels, not only has a great sustainability story but can create a range of textures, including the light and fresh feel that consumers desire now.

3. Unveiling the latest skin care trends

Innova Market Insights presented a sneak peek of the latest skin care trends based on their 2023 global consumer survey and data analysis. Are your formulations aligned with what consumers want now?

4. Answering questions about your formulation challenges

From mineral sunscreen tips to the best thickeners and replacing synthetic emulsifiers, we received a lot of great questions from webinar attendees. In fact, there were so many that we couldn’t get to that we decided to create a follow-up Q&A document for you. 

5. There's so much more!

We don’t want this to be a total spoiler alert! It’s not too late to access our webinar recording so you can receive all the great info yourself.

A Sneak Peek at New Skin Care Trends

In our webinar, How to Find the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation, we were grateful to be joined by Tom Vierhile from Innova Market Insights. He provided us with a fascinating presentation of the latest skin care trends and innovations based on Innova’s 2023 global consumer surveys and market analysis. These were some of his most interesting takeaways:

Consumers find "natural products" most appealing

“Natural products” topped a list of global skin care trends that most appealed to consumers, even ranking more important than multifunctionality and personalization. In the Innova survey, well-known ingredients were also rated as a very or extremely important factor to consumers when buying skin care.

"Vegan" and "free-from" claims are trending in new product development

In addition to products promoting things such as free from animal-based ingredients and animal testing, “emulsifier free” and “PEG-free” positioning claims are growing with global skin care brands.

New texture trend: light and fresh

There has been an 11% average annual growth (2018-2022) in the number of skin care launches with light texture claims, according to the Innova database. Moisturizers, day creams and more promote this quality with on-package labeling such as “light skin feeling” and still providing “intense moisture without feeling heavy on the skin.”

Consumers want upcycled ingredients

1 in 2

…consumers globally agree or strongly agree that they would like to see more personal care products using upcycled ingredients.

According to Tom, one in two consumers globally “agree or strongly agree that they would like to see more personal care products using upcycled ingredients.” An effective way to reduce food waste, upcycling is an easy-to-understand sustainability concept and can help brands to achieve consumers’ desire for more natural ingredients. CP Kelco offers KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber, upcycled from citrus peels, an abundant byproduct of the juice industry.

An alternative to synthetic emulsifiers, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber is also an answer to “free from” claims, providing robust stability and enabling SENSational, light and fresh textures. Learn more about its sustainability story and great functionality.

Want more on skin care trends?

Source: Innova Beauty, Household & Personal Care Survey 2023; Innova Database: % of global facial skin care launches by “free from” positioning subcategory 2018-2019 vs. 2021-2022.

Answering Your Questions From the Skincare Ingredient Webinar

Thanks for all the great questions you sent during our recent webinar with Tom Vierhile of Innova Market Insights called How to Choose the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation. There were so many that we did not have time to answer them live. Here, we’ve gathered them all and appreciate the chance to provide recommendations for some of your formulation challenges.

Trends with Innova Market Insights

The good news is that consumers are keeping an open mind when it comes to new skincare ingredients. According to Innova’s Beauty, Household, and Personal Care 2023 survey, just over 40% of American consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective. This leaves the door open to innovative new ingredients and new ingredients with a story behind them, especially one that references hot button topics like sustainability, may have an inside track here. 

Globally, consumers in Brazil and China are most enthusiastic. Over 70% of Brazilian consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective.

One trend that is a “sleeper” and could evolve into something serious is around the skin microbiome. Few, if any products, were talking about the skin microbiome just a few years ago. As recently as 2018, the claims were non-existent. But today, we’re starting to see companies talking about the skin microbiome and how this has an impact on whole body health. This is also tied in with the use of prebiotic and probiotic ingredients. 

Regarding the skin microbiome alone, Innova reports that 2% of facial skin care products mentioned the skin microbiome in 2022. Ingredients that can either improve the health of the skin microbiome or at least not negatively impact it could be in a sweet spot, going forward.

This is a tough question. Consumers consider a variety of factors when they are shopping for products and sustainability is one of many attributes that may be considered. Price and performance are likely to rank as higher concerns for consumers, but the good news is that 4 in 10 American consumers say they are willing to pay more for personal care products that are sustainable. 

The big question is probably how much more, and that is something I do not have an answer to. What we are seeing in the food and beverage space here at Innova is that the halo around environmental claims is expanding to the point where sustainability is becoming a more important facet of the “clean label” trend, one that has the potential to move the sales needle, moving forward. 

KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber

Single step and direct extraction from peels helps to retain pectin, which boosts KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber’s effectiveness as an emulsion stabilizer. Other citrus fibers are produced once the pectin has been extracted.

Replacing Emulsifiers & Synthetics

All three are effective at stabilizing emulsions in personal care product development. We like to call KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum a “super xanthan gum” that stabilizes and thickens with a silky feel and no tack. UniqSens™ SFE System is a xanthan-based blend optimized to provide stability and flexibility in process as well a more desirable sensory compared to single ingredients. KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber is the newest stabilizer in our portfolio. It delivers a remarkably refreshing and light feel while being upcycled from food waste.

Xanthan gum is not a traditional emulsifier, but it can be used to help stabilize emulsions by providing high viscosity to the water phase, which slows the movement/agglomeration of droplets.

KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber and UniqSens™ SFE System are two great, nature-based ingredient offerings for developing emulsifier-free systems. But you could say that all of our ingredients can contribute to stable emulsions by providing viscosity to the water phase. Some are more efficient thickeners than others, some work in limited pH range or require heat, and each contributes a unique feel or texture. These factors all play a role in deciding which ingredient to incorporate in your formulation, and we are always happy to advise on product recommendations for specific needs.

This really depends on your specific system and the rest of your formulation. For instance, if you are trying to replace waxy emulsifiers (such as PEG-100 Stearate), you may find the need to include a waxy component in your oil phase to maintain the same feel. Also, the stabilization mechanism is completely different so every formulation needs to be assessed.

We might recommend KELTROL® Xanthan Gum since it is an efficient thickener that works in robust conditions. It has a wide working pH range and is compatible with many surfactant types/levels. It can be easily incorporated and is cold-processable with transparent grades available.

If you also are working with a sulphate-free formula, GENUVISCO® CG-129 Carrageenan could technically be a good option in this case. Here is a prototype for you to try.

Our portfolio of nature-based and bio-based ingredients provides a broad range of sensorial benefits when utilized alone or in combination with one another. From upcycled KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber to GENU® Carrageenan and beyond, each product is developed on purpose, with a good sustainability story to back it up.

We can provide you with a life cycle assessment so you can see for yourself. And, we can help you achieve your product goals – everything from silky thin serums to gels to luxe creams. We would be happy to help if you are looking for a specific sensory profile. We also have options to support vegan, ECOCERT® and COSMOS® certification claims.

Nature-Based Innovation

We are texture experts; however, you can expect from us more understanding coming soon on the functional performance of our ingredients beyond rheology. For example, the area of skin health.

According to some of the interactions that our customers have experienced, consumers tend to believe that natural means “healthy” or “good for you” and “good for the planet”. Whether it is an active ingredient or a supporting ingredient, we’ve noticed that consumers generally believe the manufacturer has found a better alternative; one that leaves the world in a better place as well.

Generally speaking, if an ingredient is friendly to our skin’s microbiome, then it means that it is much less likely to irritate skin or disrupt the microbial balance. Some natural/more sustainable ingredients can have a positive impact on the microbiome by helping to maintain the diverse skin ecosystem.

Yes, CP Kelco produces a full range of nature-based and bio-based ingredients with grades that can be used across a variety of applications. We started approximately 90 years ago making pectin for food applications such as jams and jellies. Our products are now utilized in the food, pharmaceutical, oral and personal care, household, and oil and gas industries. We have grades available to address the needs of our customers and can help them meet organic, halal, kosher, non-GMO and other clean label-friendly goals.

Texture Challenges

We recommend adding xanthan gum early in the process (before surfactants, after chelator), but this is more to ensure full hydration, which can affect transparency. You could also make a slurry or pre-blend with other powders (if any) to prevent lumps and assure proper dispersion.

Somewhere around 0.05% should still allow for sprayable texture while providing stabilization benefits when using KELCOGEL® CG-LA Gellan Gum.

We have paired both forms of KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum together in sprayable formulas for high stability depending on what the pH/processing conditions allow. In your system, you may find that you only need one. Our best recommendation would be to reach out to our CP Kelco team of technical experts for personalized advice.

Sun Care

Here are some bio-based ingredient options for you:

  • UniqSens™ SFE System is a great sunscreen stabilizer. It is highly compatible with multiple UV filters, as well as various processes and equipment. It is a ready-to-use solution for a seasonal final product.

  • KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum and its fluid gel technology enable suspension in thin, sprayable liquids, providing an ideal wider spray pattern compared to other nature-based solutions, as well as heat resistance that can help the emulsion stay stable over summer’s high temperatures. Try this free sunscreen prototype to see for yourself: Let’s Get Physical Sunscreen Recipe Card.

Yes, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber can be an effective stabilizer in sun care and deliver a slight cooling effect that can be refreshing on the skin. It should be used at 1-2% and a pH between 3.0 and 6.0. It is best when used with a supporting emulsifier or stabilizer.

It will provide great emulsion stability. However, it will generate less viscosity per gram used. We don’t have a direct comparison, but we expect large differences in expected usage levels:

  • Synthetic stabilizers expected usage level: 0.1%-0.5%
  • KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber expected usage level: 1.0%-2.0%
  •  

SPF does not affect KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber However, the pH of the overall formula will affect its performance. Different UV filters may require different pH levels to function properly.

  • Most chemical, organic and non-mineral UV filters can be used at pH 5-6 with no problem.
    • PBSA is an organic UV filter that requires pH > 6.8 to avoid crystallization and thus will not work with KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.

  • Mineral sunscreens using zinc oxide are normally formulated at pH 6.5-7.5 which is outside of the acceptable pH range for KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.
    • Zinc oxide requires pH > 6.5 to avoid dissolving and destabilizing the formula.
  • Mineral sunscreens using titanium dioxide without zinc oxide can be made at pH 5-6 and should work just fine with KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.

Please note that without having the exact product formulation, we can only provide general guidance and cannot guarantee results. Feel free to reach out to our team of technical experts for more personal assistance. 

Answering Your Questions From the Skincare Ingredient Webinar

Thanks for all the great questions you sent during our recent webinar with Tom Vierhile of Innova Market Insights called How to Choose the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation. There were so many that we did not have time to answer them live. Here, we’ve gathered them all and appreciate the chance to provide recommendations for some of your formulation challenges.

Trends with Innova Market Insights

The good news is that consumers are keeping an open mind when it comes to new skincare ingredients. According to Innova’s Beauty, Household, and Personal Care 2023 survey, just over 40% of American consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective. This leaves the door open to innovative new ingredients and new ingredients with a story behind them, especially one that references hot button topics like sustainability, may have an inside track here. 

Globally, consumers in Brazil and China are most enthusiastic. Over 70% of Brazilian consumers believe that new technologies and ingredients can make personal care products more effective.

One trend that is a “sleeper” and could evolve into something serious is around the skin microbiome. Few, if any products, were talking about the skin microbiome just a few years ago. As recently as 2018, the claims were non-existent. But today, we’re starting to see companies talking about the skin microbiome and how this has an impact on whole body health. This is also tied in with the use of prebiotic and probiotic ingredients. 

Regarding the skin microbiome alone, Innova reports that 2% of facial skin care products mentioned the skin microbiome in 2022. Ingredients that can either improve the health of the skin microbiome or at least not negatively impact it could be in a sweet spot, going forward.

This is a tough question. Consumers consider a variety of factors when they are shopping for products and sustainability is one of many attributes that may be considered. Price and performance are likely to rank as higher concerns for consumers, but the good news is that 4 in 10 American consumers say they are willing to pay more for personal care products that are sustainable. 

The big question is probably how much more, and that is something I do not have an answer to. What we are seeing in the food and beverage space here at Innova is that the halo around environmental claims is expanding to the point where sustainability is becoming a more important facet of the “clean label” trend, one that has the potential to move the sales needle, moving forward. 

KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber

Single step and direct extraction from peels helps to retain pectin, which boosts KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber’s effectiveness as an emulsion stabilizer. Other citrus fibers are produced once the pectin has been extracted.

Replacing Emulsifiers & Synthetics

All three are effective at stabilizing emulsions in personal care product development. We like to call KELCO-CARE® Diutan Gum a “super xanthan gum” that stabilizes and thickens with a silky feel and no tack. UniqSens™ SFE System is a xanthan-based blend optimized to provide stability and flexibility in process as well a more desirable sensory compared to single ingredients. KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber is the newest stabilizer in our portfolio. It delivers a remarkably refreshing and light feel while being upcycled from food waste.

Xanthan gum is not a traditional emulsifier, but it can be used to help stabilize emulsions by providing high viscosity to the water phase, which slows the movement/agglomeration of droplets.

KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber and UniqSens™ SFE System are two great, nature-based ingredient offerings for developing emulsifier-free systems. But you could say that all of our ingredients can contribute to stable emulsions by providing viscosity to the water phase. Some are more efficient thickeners than others, some work in limited pH range or require heat, and each contributes a unique feel or texture. These factors all play a role in deciding which ingredient to incorporate in your formulation, and we are always happy to advise on product recommendations for specific needs.

This really depends on your specific system and the rest of your formulation. For instance, if you are trying to replace waxy emulsifiers (such as PEG-100 Stearate), you may find the need to include a waxy component in your oil phase to maintain the same feel. Also, the stabilization mechanism is completely different so every formulation needs to be assessed.

We might recommend KELTROL® Xanthan Gum since it is an efficient thickener that works in robust conditions. It has a wide working pH range and is compatible with many surfactant types/levels. It can be easily incorporated and is cold-processable with transparent grades available.

If you also are working with a sulphate-free formula, GENUVISCO® CG-129 Carrageenan could technically be a good option in this case. Here is a prototype for you to try.

Our portfolio of nature-based and bio-based ingredients provides a broad range of sensorial benefits when utilized alone or in combination with one another. From upcycled KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber to GENU® Carrageenan and beyond, each product is developed on purpose, with a good sustainability story to back it up.

We can provide you with a life cycle assessment so you can see for yourself. And, we can help you achieve your product goals – everything from silky thin serums to gels to luxe creams. We would be happy to help if you are looking for a specific sensory profile. We also have options to support vegan, ECOCERT® and COSMOS® certification claims.

Nature-Based Innovation

We are texture experts; however, you can expect from us more understanding coming soon on the functional performance of our ingredients beyond rheology. For example, the area of skin health.

According to some of the interactions that our customers have experienced, consumers tend to believe that natural means “healthy” or “good for you” and “good for the planet”. Whether it is an active ingredient or a supporting ingredient, we’ve noticed that consumers generally believe the manufacturer has found a better alternative; one that leaves the world in a better place as well.

Generally speaking, if an ingredient is friendly to our skin’s microbiome, then it means that it is much less likely to irritate skin or disrupt the microbial balance. Some natural/more sustainable ingredients can have a positive impact on the microbiome by helping to maintain the diverse skin ecosystem.

Yes, CP Kelco produces a full range of nature-based and bio-based ingredients with grades that can be used across a variety of applications. We started approximately 90 years ago making pectin for food applications such as jams and jellies. Our products are now utilized in the food, pharmaceutical, oral and personal care, household, and oil and gas industries. We have grades available to address the needs of our customers and can help them meet organic, halal, kosher, non-GMO and other clean label-friendly goals.

Texture Challenges

We recommend adding xanthan gum early in the process (before surfactants, after chelator), but this is more to ensure full hydration, which can affect transparency. You could also make a slurry or pre-blend with other powders (if any) to prevent lumps and assure proper dispersion.

Somewhere around 0.05% should still allow for sprayable texture while providing stabilization benefits when using KELCOGEL® CG-LA Gellan Gum.

We have paired both forms of KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum together in sprayable formulas for high stability depending on what the pH/processing conditions allow. In your system, you may find that you only need one. Our best recommendation would be to reach out to our CP Kelco team of technical experts for personalized advice.

Sun Care

Here are some bio-based ingredient options for you:

  • UniqSens™ SFE System is a great sunscreen stabilizer. It is highly compatible with multiple UV filters, as well as various processes and equipment. It is a ready-to-use solution for a seasonal final product.

  • KELCOGEL® Gellan Gum and its fluid gel technology enable suspension in thin, sprayable liquids, providing an ideal wider spray pattern compared to other nature-based solutions, as well as heat resistance that can help the emulsion stay stable over summer’s high temperatures. Try this free sunscreen prototype to see for yourself: Let’s Get Physical Sunscreen Recipe Card.

Yes, KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber can be an effective stabilizer in sun care and deliver a slight cooling effect that can be refreshing on the skin. It should be used at 1-2% and a pH between 3.0 and 6.0. It is best when used with a supporting emulsifier or stabilizer.

It will provide great emulsion stability. However, it will generate less viscosity per gram used. We don’t have a direct comparison, but we expect large differences in expected usage levels:

  • Synthetic stabilizers expected usage level: 0.1%-0.5%
  • KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber expected usage level: 1.0%-2.0%
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SPF does not affect KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber However, the pH of the overall formula will affect its performance. Different UV filters may require different pH levels to function properly.

  • Most chemical, organic and non-mineral UV filters can be used at pH 5-6 with no problem.
    • PBSA is an organic UV filter that requires pH > 6.8 to avoid crystallization and thus will not work with KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.

  • Mineral sunscreens using zinc oxide are normally formulated at pH 6.5-7.5 which is outside of the acceptable pH range for KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.
    • Zinc oxide requires pH > 6.5 to avoid dissolving and destabilizing the formula.
  • Mineral sunscreens using titanium dioxide without zinc oxide can be made at pH 5-6 and should work just fine with KELCOSENS™ Citrus Fiber.

Please note that without having the exact product formulation, we can only provide general guidance and cannot guarantee results. Feel free to reach out to our team of technical experts for more personal assistance. 

How to Choose the Best Ingredient for Your Sustainable Skin Care Formulation

Consumers today expect their skin care products to have a cleaner label, with more “natural” and sustainably sourced ingredients. According to Innova Market Insights, 46% of global consumers always take sustainability into account when buying personal care products. Vegan claims also grew to 23% of launches in 2022. However, consumers also expect their skin care products to offer high performance and an innovative, sensory experience. In this webinar, we discuss how to reformulate serums, lotions and creams to meet new consumer demands and address the following topics: 

  • The Latest Skin Care Trends from Innova Market Insights
  • New Ingredient Options
  • How New Packaging Can Also Mean Reformulating
  • How to Achieve Emulsion Stability
  • Meet “Free From” Claims
  • And More!

Want more on sustainable skin care formulations?

During the webinar, we received many questions from attendees on topics such as replacing emulsifiers and synthetics, innovation, texture challenges and more. Click the button below to see top questions and answers from our team of experts at CP Kelco innovation centers around the world.

Fight Rising Tomato Prices with NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber

Three straight years of crop devastation in the world’s key tomato-producing regions have tomato paste prices nearing historic levels. Don’t let a crisis derail your company’s development plans for condiments and other tomato-based products. Let’s talk about solutions instead!

Extend what you have

NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber can help extend tomato solids up to 25% in tomato sauces and condiments, according to our internal lab studies, without experiencing loss of mouthfeel, texture, color or appearance. Similar to a tomato’s own composition, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber contains a blend of insoluble and soluble fiber with a high level of pectin. This makes it a much more desirable, clean label-friendly choice for reformulation versus alternatives that can alter the texture, taste and mouthfeel of your product.

Unlike starch, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber provides clean flavor release so your product’s hearty tomato flavor comes through well. It also stands up well to the harsh processing and eating occasions of tomato products, so it can handle the pH and the freeze-thaw-heat conditions, remaining uniform and resisting syneresis.

NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber can help extend tomato solids up to 25% in tomato sauces and condiments, according to our internal lab studies, without experiencing loss of mouthfeel, texture, color or appearance. Similar to a tomato’s own composition, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber contains a blend of insoluble and soluble fiber with a high level of pectin. This makes it a much more desirable, clean label-friendly choice for reformulation versus alternatives that can alter the texture, taste and mouthfeel of your product.

Unlike starch, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber provides clean flavor release so your product’s hearty tomato flavor comes through well. It also stands up well to the harsh processing and eating occasions of tomato products, so it can handle the pH and the freeze-thaw-heat conditions, remaining uniform and resisting syneresis.

Don't settle - upgrade instead!

It makes good financial sense to get the most out of ingredients in short supply. Rather than settling for a lower quality product, consider an ingredient that can meet consumers’ expectations. Deliver similar taste, texture and mouthfeel with an ingredient that has the added benefit of supporting dietary fiber intake – a plus for consumers. NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber does not require special handling and cold storage like tomatoes do, and the use level is very low. As a bonus, it also supports sugar reduction by providing body and mouthfeel.

An upcycled ingredient

NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber is upcycled from sustainably sourced citrus peels, a byproduct of the juice industry near our plant in Brazil. This next-generation ingredient supports dietary fiber intake and offers unique water-holding, texturizing and stabilization capabilities. With an abundant, nature-based raw material supply available, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber is well-positioned to help solve supply challenges.

An easily recognizable ingredient, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber has no E number in Europe and can be listed simply as citrus fiber on the product label to help you meet clean label-friendly goals. In addition, NUTRAVA® Citrus Fiber is also compatible with standard manufacturing processes, so that is one less thing to worry about when reformulating. Ask us to show you how to reduce reliance on supply-challenged ingredients in your application. Our team of technical experts is happy to work with you to meet your product development needs.

We are ready to help you now.