Natural Biopolymers in Cosmetic

and Personal Care Applications

 

 

 

BACKGROUND

CP Kelco supplies carbohydrate-based biopolymers to a wide range of industries through out the world. These polymers are based on natural sustainable resources and are manufactured under controlled conditions. The goal of CP Kelco is simple - to provide products that enhance our customers' business. We achieve this through effective, often unique biopolymers, and careful attention to customer needs. Key product lines for cosmetic and personal care applications are KELTROL® CG xanthan gums, KELCOGEL® CG gellan gums, GENU® pectins and GENUGEL® and GENUVISCO® carrageenans. All contain differentiated products that address specific formulation needs.

KEY FUNCTIONALITY IN COSMETIC AND PERSONAL CARE APPLICATIONS


 

Key Features of KELTROL® CG Xanthan Gum
Products

Key Features of KELCOGEL® CG Gellan Gum
Products

Thickening, shear-thinning (pseudoplastic) rheology
Stabilize suspensions, emulsions and foams
Soluble in hot or cold water
Stable over a wide range of pH and temperatures
Excellent compatibility in the presence of anionic,
     amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants
     and high concentrations of salt
Resistant to enzymatic degradation
Naturally derived

Form gels from low to high gel strength
Form fluid gels with unique suspension properties
Flexibility in melting and setting points
Sparkling clarity
Excellent stability

Process flexibility and tolerance
Naturally derived

 

 

Key Features of GENUGEL® and GENUVISCO® Carrageenan Products

Key Features of GENU® Pectin Products

Form transparent, thermally reversible gels
Produce a wide range of textures
Produce fluid gels
Stabilize suspensions, emulsions and foams
Stable under neutral and alkaline conditions
Resistant to enzymatic degradation
Natural

Natural and accepted favorably on product labels
Form gels under acidic conditions
Bind waters
Form excellent films
Skin friendly

 

CP KELCO PRODUCTS FOR COSMETIC AND PERSONAL CARE APPLICATIONS


 

Xanthan gum

KELTROL® CG xanthan gum is a high molecular weight polysaccharide produced by microbial fermentation.

KELTROL® CG xanthan gum is used to thicken, stabilize suspensions, oil-in-water emulsions and foams against separation. The high viscosity associated with KELTROL® CG xanthan gum solutions at low shear rates enables products to keep particles suspended or prevent oil droplets from coalescing. Because the viscosity drops when shear is applied, the end consumer products can be easily scooped, poured, or squeezed from its container. Once the force is removed, the solutions regain their initial viscosity almost immediately.

Comparison of extensional viscosity
Standard KELTROL® xanthan gum KELTROL® CG-SFT xanthan gum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Product                     INCI name                Solution Clarity                        Description

KELTROL® CG
KELTROL® CG-T
KELTROL® CG-SFT
KELDENT®
Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum

Translucent
Transparent
Transparent
Transparent

Standard viscosity grade
Standard viscosity grade
Smooth flow grade
Toothpaste grade

 

Applications

Lotions and creams
Suntan lotions and sunscreens
Hair care products
Make-up, mascara, and eyeliner
Face masks and packs
Toothpaste
Shampoo
Shower gel / body wash
Shaving foams

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Gellan gum

KELCOGEL® CG gellan gum is a polysaccharide manufactured by microbial fermentation. KELCOGEL® CG gellan gum
is a gelling agent, effective at extremely low use levels, forming solid gels at concentrations as low as 0.1%.
KELCOGEL® CG gellan gum products can be used to form fluid gels, which represents a unique way of stabilizing suspensions, without adding viscosity.
KELCOGEL® CG gellan gum is available in two chemical forms: high and low acyl content. Low acyl products form hard, non-elastic gels. High acyl products form soft, elastic gels. Varying the ratio of the two forms produces a
wide range of textures.

 

Product                             INCI name                      Solution Clarity                        Description

KELCOGEL® CG-LA
KELCOGEL® CG-HA
Gellan gum
Gellan gum

Transparent
Opaque

Brittle gels
Elastic gels

 

Applications

Lotions and creams
Make-up
Face masks and packs
Hair care products
Toothpaste
Air freshener gels

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Carrageenans

Carrageenans are extracted from red seaweeds and are available in three distinct chemical forms: Kappa carrageenans form strong, brittle gels, Iota carrageenans form soft elastic gels, and Lambda carrageenans are non-gelling thickeners.

Carrageenan's ability to form gels can be used in numerous cosmetic products to impart texture and consistency. Gelling grades of carrageenan can be formulated in very low concentrations to form fluid gels that stabilize solid particles and give suspension properties to keep particles from settling, such as pigments in liquid preparations. By using the appropriate product, the formulator can create rheological profiles ranging from free-flowing liquids to thixotropic fluid gels and self-supporting solid gels.

 

Product                                   INCI name               Type                    Preparation           Function

GENUGEL® X-902-02
GENUVISCO®
TPC-1
GENUVISCO
X-923-03
Carrageenan
Carrageenan
Carrageenan

Kappa
Iota
Iota

Hot
Cold
Cold
High strength gels
Toothpaste binder
Thickening and gelling

Note: Kappa, iota, and lambda carrageenans complying with the requirements of either the US National Formulary
or the Japanese Pharmaceutical Excipients are available.

Applications

Skin and lotions
Hair care products
Eye make-up
Toothpaste
Shaving foams
Stick applications
Air freshener gel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pectin

GENU® pectins are a family of partially methyl esterified polysaccharides produced from citrus peel and sugar beet pulp by extraction and controlled de-esterification.

Pectins are classified as high methoxyl (HM) pectin and low methoxyl (LM) pectin. HM pectin requires a minimum amount of soluble solids and a narrow pH range, around 3.0, in order to form gels, LM pectin requires the presence of a controlled amount of calcium or other divalent cations to form a gel.

Apart from adding structure through gelation and viscosity build-up, pectin gels on the skin can provide moisture absorption while being skin friendly. Also, pectin gels, which are physically disrupted during processing, are used to formulate lotions and creams without the use of surfactants.

Pectin is well known as the gel-forming component of fruits and as an ingredient of many food products. The inclusion of pectin on product labels is generally regarded favourably by consumers.

 

Product                                    INCI name      Origin            Type                 Function

GENU® pectin USP/100
GENU®
pectin X-914-02
GENU®
pectin X-939-04
GENU®
pectin X-916-02

Pectin
Pectin
Pectin
Pectin

Citrus
Citrus
Citrus
Citrus

HM
LM
High DE
LM
Films; gels in high humectant systems
Films; stable in neutral and alkaline media
Forms films
Gels with calcium ions

 

Applications

Films and masks
Lotions and creams
Hair conditioners
Hair styling products
Films

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

ORAL CARE

KELDENT® xanthan gum was developed specifically for toothpaste applications and meets U.S. National Formulary, European Pharmacopeia and Japanese Pharmacopeia requirements.

 

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
KELDENT® xanthan gum offers superior water binding and excellent formulation stand up in a broad range of toothpaste formulations. Keldent works well as a stand alone binder or in combination with other commonly used binders
KELCOGEL® CG offers a unique mouth feel and flexible processing alternatives in toothpaste formulations. Kelcogel® CG works well in combination with xanthan gum to produce a wide variety of formulation opportunites for todays highly innovative oral care market