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Biopolymers in Cosmetic |
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and
Personal Care Applications
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BACKGROUND
CP Kelco supplies carbohydrate-based biopolymers
to a wide range of industries through out the world. These polymers
are based on natural sustainable resources and are manufactured under
controlled conditions. The goal of CP Kelco is simple - to provide products
that enhance our customers' business. We achieve this through effective,
often unique biopolymers, and careful attention to customer needs. Key
product lines for cosmetic and personal care applications are KELTROL®
CG xanthan gums, KELCOGEL® CG gellan
gums, GENU® pectins and GENUGEL®
and GENUVISCO® carrageenans. All contain differentiated
products that address specific formulation needs.
KEY FUNCTIONALITY IN COSMETIC AND PERSONAL CARE
APPLICATIONS
CP KELCO PRODUCTS FOR COSMETIC AND PERSONAL
CARE APPLICATIONS
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Xanthan
gum
KELTROL® CG
xanthan gum is a high molecular weight polysaccharide produced
by microbial fermentation.
KELTROL® CG
xanthan gum is used to thicken, stabilize suspensions, oil-in-water
emulsions and foams against separation. The high viscosity associated
with KELTROL® CG xanthan gum solutions
at low shear rates enables products to keep particles suspended
or prevent oil droplets from coalescing. Because the viscosity
drops when shear is applied, the end consumer products can be
easily scooped, poured, or squeezed from its container. Once the
force is removed, the solutions regain their initial viscosity
almost immediately.
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Comparison
of extensional viscosity |
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| Standard
KELTROL® xanthan gum |
KELTROL®
CG-SFT xanthan gum |
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Product INCI
name Solution
Clarity Description
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KELTROL®
CG
KELTROL® CG-T
KELTROL® CG-SFT
KELDENT®
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Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum
Xanthan gum |
Translucent
Transparent
Transparent
Transparent
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Standard viscosity
grade
Standard viscosity grade
Smooth flow grade
Toothpaste grade |
Applications
Lotions and creams
Suntan lotions and sunscreens
Hair care products
Make-up, mascara, and eyeliner
Face masks and packs
Toothpaste
Shampoo
Shower gel / body wash
Shaving foams
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Gellan gum
KELCOGEL® CG gellan
gum is a polysaccharide manufactured by microbial fermentation. KELCOGEL®
CG gellan gum
is a gelling agent, effective at extremely low use levels, forming solid
gels at concentrations as low as 0.1%.
KELCOGEL® CG gellan gum products can be
used to form fluid gels, which represents a unique way of stabilizing
suspensions, without adding viscosity.
KELCOGEL® CG gellan gum is available in
two chemical forms: high and low acyl content. Low acyl products form
hard, non-elastic gels. High acyl products form soft, elastic gels.
Varying the ratio of the two forms produces a
wide range of textures.
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Product INCI
name Solution
Clarity Description
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KELCOGEL®
CG-LA
KELCOGEL® CG-HA |
Gellan gum
Gellan gum |
Transparent
Opaque
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Brittle gels
Elastic gels |
Applications
Lotions and creams
Make-up
Face masks and packs
Hair care products
Toothpaste
Air freshener gels
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Carrageenans
Carrageenans are extracted from red seaweeds
and are available in three distinct chemical forms: Kappa carrageenans
form strong, brittle gels, Iota carrageenans form soft elastic gels,
and Lambda carrageenans are non-gelling thickeners.
Carrageenan's ability to form gels can be used
in numerous cosmetic products to impart texture and consistency. Gelling
grades of carrageenan can be formulated in very low concentrations to
form fluid gels that stabilize solid particles and give suspension properties
to keep particles from settling, such as pigments in liquid preparations.
By using the appropriate product, the formulator can create rheological
profiles ranging from free-flowing liquids to thixotropic fluid gels
and self-supporting solid gels.
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Product INCI
name Type Preparation Function
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GENUGEL®
X-902-02
GENUVISCO® TPC-1
GENUVISCO X-923-03
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Carrageenan
Carrageenan
Carrageenan
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Kappa
Iota
Iota
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Hot
Cold
Cold
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High strength gels
Toothpaste binder
Thickening and gelling
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Note: Kappa, iota, and lambda carrageenans
complying with the requirements of either the US National Formulary
or the Japanese Pharmaceutical Excipients are available.
Applications
Skin and lotions
Hair care products
Eye make-up
Toothpaste
Shaving foams
Stick applications
Air freshener gel
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Pectin
GENU®
pectins are a family of partially methyl esterified polysaccharides
produced from citrus peel and sugar beet pulp by extraction and controlled
de-esterification.
Pectins are classified as high methoxyl (HM)
pectin and low methoxyl (LM) pectin. HM pectin requires a minimum amount
of soluble solids and a narrow pH range, around 3.0, in order to form
gels, LM pectin requires the presence of a controlled amount of calcium
or other divalent cations to form a gel.
Apart from adding structure through gelation
and viscosity build-up, pectin gels on the skin can provide moisture
absorption while being skin friendly. Also, pectin gels, which are physically
disrupted during processing, are used to formulate lotions and creams
without the use of surfactants.
Pectin is well known as the gel-forming component
of fruits and as an ingredient of many food products. The inclusion
of pectin on product labels is generally regarded favourably by consumers.
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Product
INCI name Origin
Type Function
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GENU®
pectin USP/100
GENU® pectin X-914-02
GENU® pectin X-939-04
GENU® pectin X-916-02
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Pectin
Pectin
Pectin
Pectin
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Citrus
Citrus
Citrus
Citrus
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HM
LM
High DE
LM
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Films; gels in high humectant systems
Films; stable in neutral and alkaline media
Forms films
Gels with calcium ions
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Applications
Films and masks
Lotions and creams
Hair conditioners
Hair styling products
Films
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ORAL CARE
KELDENT®
xanthan gum was developed specifically for toothpaste applications and
meets U.S. National Formulary, European Pharmacopeia and Japanese Pharmacopeia
requirements.
| PRODUCT |
DESCRIPTION |
| KELDENT®
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xanthan
gum offers superior water binding and excellent formulation stand
up in a broad range of toothpaste formulations. Keldent works
well as a stand alone binder or in combination with other commonly
used binders |
| KELCOGEL®
CG |
offers a unique mouth
feel and flexible processing alternatives in toothpaste formulations.
Kelcogel® CG works
well in combination with xanthan gum to produce a wide variety of
formulation opportunites for todays highly innovative oral care market |
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